Instructions to Build & Use Deep Water Jet

Instructions to Build and Use a Deep Water Jet

First, here’s a diagram and parts list of what you’ll need  (note the # in the diagram, correlates with the part# in the list below):

jetdiagram

Parts Needed:

#1  30″ long galvanized nipple pipe

#2  10″ long galvanized nipple pipe

#3  8″ long galvanized nipple pipe

#4  1/2″ galvanized tee

#5  1/2″ cap

#6  1/2″ galvanized right hand coupler

#7  1/2″ pipe thread to 3/4″ hose thread adaptor (male hose fitting)

#8  brass swivel hose adaptor w/washer

#9  toilet plunger

#10  teflon sealing tape

#11  1/2″ x 2″ close brass nipple pipe

#12 1/2″ – 3/4″brass bushing

#13 1/2″ threaded full-port brass irrigation ball valve

#14  6″ brass nozzle with washer

All the parts cost me about $65.

Construction

  1. Purchase parts (SEE ABOVE DIAGRAM & PARTS LIST).
  2. Drill a 1” hole through the plunger head (the toughest part).  Be sure to keep your hand away from the area your drilling.6
  3. Assemble all parts as shown in diagram, wrapping a lap of teflon tap on the pipe and between fittings. Wrap clockwise.7
  4. Tighten with wrenches, vice, or whatever you’ve got that can do the job and get the threads tight.  Be careful of sharp fragments that may occur from the grip of the wrench slightly slipping on the pipe (say that 5 times-fast).10
  5. Before attaching lower segments, make sure to slide plunger head onto 30” pipe section (note-plunger may not slide easily.  Your choice – whether or not to hand guide the plunger head down the pipe toward the nozzle to reduce mud sprayed on your face).photo 2
  6. Attach to hose. Check ball valve is closed (Note: ball valve is open in this photo).photo 4

photo 3

Use 

  1. Turn on hose at faucet.  Test spray action.  Turn off ball valve.  Minimize leaks with rubber washer between hose and receiver. Tighten leaks.
  2. Place nozzle tip on soil surface.
  3. Simultaneously turn on ball valve while pushing nozzle into the soil approximately 6” deep.  Then massage water jet nozzle into soil to penetrate lower depths another 6”-24”, through compacted layers.  BEWARE OF UP SPRAY OF MUD FROM NOZZLE IN SOIL.
  4. Let water run a bit or remove nozzle while closing ball valve.
  5. Move to next site.  Repeat.
  6. Inject holes in a grid pattern beginning two to three of feet from the trunk (larger tree-further is better) out to the dripline.  Place holes every two to three square feet.
  7. If you hit an obstacle that feels like a root or rock, back out and try another spot.
  8. BEFORE USING – ALWAYS KNOW IF THERE ARE UNDERGROUND UTILITIES WITHIN A 36” DEPTH,  THE LENGTH OF THE PIPE AND NOZZLE

Tips

  • Wear clothing that can get wet and dirty just in case you get sprayed.
  • To minimize clogging, close down ball value while in process of removing nozzle rather than when nozzle is still in the ground.
  • In case of clogging, carry a 6”- 12″ piece of coat hanger with one end looped into a handle and use to clean out the hole in the nozzle should it get plugged with soil.  DON’T POINT NOZZLE TOWARD FACE AT ANY TIME, INCLUDING WHEN UNPLUGGING HOLE.

Follow – up: Fertilizer and Mulch

  1. At your local garden center, purchase a bag of slow release fertilizer that is formulated for trees and shrubs, and apply it as recommended on the product label.
  2. Water in with another dose of overall spray covering the entire area within the dripline.
  3. Apply a 2”-3” layer of coarse tree chips.  Do not place mulch against trunk.
  4. In a month, hose down the area within the dripline, applying a few minutes of water on each area that gets through the mulch layer and into the underlying soil.

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